OBD-II Car P0113 Error
What it means
P0113 means 'Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor 1 Circuit High Input'. The IAT sensor measures the temperature of air entering the engine so the ECM can calculate air density and trim the fuel mixture. The IAT is a thermistor: cold air = high resistance, hot air = low resistance. P0113 sets when the ECM sees an abnormally high signal voltage (near the full 5V reference), which it reads as an impossibly cold value like -40°F — usually from an open circuit or a disconnected sensor. It is an electrical fault, not an actual air-temperature problem. Common symptoms: check engine light, possible hard starting, rough idle, slightly reduced fuel economy or performance — though many cars run almost normally because the ECM substitutes a default value.
The bottom line on the P0113 error
P0113 is an electrical fault, not a real air-temperature problem — the ECM is reading an open circuit as impossibly cold air. Nine times out of ten the culprit is a disconnected connector or a broken signal wire, not the sensor itself, and it is a beginner-friendly DIY since the car keeps running on a default value.
Start by reseating the IAT connector and checking its wiring — that alone clears many cases. If the sensor tests bad, a standalone IAT is a $10-$50 five-minute swap; only when it is built into the MAF does the part climb to $80-$300.
P0113 snapshot
Our own at-a-glance triage of the P0113 error, from the verified data on this page. See error-code rankings → · How we score →
Common causes of the P0113 error
- Disconnected or loose IAT sensor connector
- Open circuit or broken/corroded wiring in the IAT signal or ground wire
- Faulty IAT sensor (open internally)
- On vehicles where the IAT is built into the mass air flow (MAF) sensor, a failed MAF unit
- Corroded connector pins or poor ground; rarely, an ECM fault
Which OBD-II cars get the P0113 error
P0113 can appear on almost any modern vehicle with an intake air temperature sensor, whether standalone or built into the MAF sensor. It is reported across GM, Ford, Chrysler/Dodge, Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Hyundai/Kia, and VW/Audi models. On many GM and European engines the IAT is integrated into the MAF sensor, so a MAF fault triggers the same code. Corrosion and chafed wiring near the hot intake area make it more common on older, higher-mileage cars.
How to fix the OBD-II Car P0113 error
- 1Locate and reseat the IAT sensorFind the IAT sensor — it is in the air intake duct, air filter housing, or built into the MAF sensor. Unplug the connector, check for a loose fit or backed-out pins, then firmly reconnect it. Clear the code and see if it returns.
- 2Inspect the wiring and connectorLook for chafed, melted, or broken wires and corrosion in the connector. Because P0113 is a 'high input' (open-circuit) code, a broken signal wire or bad connection is the usual culprit. Repair any damage found.
- 3Test the sensorWith a multimeter, measure the sensor's resistance and compare against the temperature-vs-resistance chart in the service data. Resistance should fall as the sensor warms. An open (infinite resistance) reading means the sensor is bad. A quick check: unplugging the sensor should read very cold, and jumping the two terminals together should read very hot — if the ECM value swings, the wiring is intact and the sensor is at fault.
- 4Replace the sensor (or MAF)If the IAT tests bad, replace it. On many vehicles the IAT is integral to the MAF sensor, so the whole MAF unit is replaced. Use a quality part and reset the code.
🧰 When to call a professional
This is usually a DIY-friendly fix. Call a professional if the wiring damage is buried in a harness, if the code persists after a new sensor (possible ECM or ground issue), or if you are not comfortable using a multimeter to test the circuit.
OBD-II P0113 vs OBD-II P0102 vs OBD-II P0171: how they compare
How this code stacks up against related error codes for difficulty, urgency, and cost.
| OBD-II P0113 | OBD-II P0102 | OBD-II P0171 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| DIY difficulty (1–5) | 2 | 3 | 3 |
| Urgency (1–5) | 2 | 3 | 3 |
| Typical cost | $ | $$ | $$ |
How much does it cost to fix the P0113 error?
| DIY parts only (standalone IAT sensor) | $10–$50 |
| DIY parts (IAT integrated in MAF) | $80–$300 part |
| Professional diagnosis & repair | $100–$250 |
Repair or replace?
This is one of the cheapest codes to fix and never justifies replacing the vehicle. A standalone IAT sensor is inexpensive and typically a five-minute swap, so DIY makes sense for most owners. The only time the bill grows is when the IAT is built into the MAF sensor (a pricier part) or when the fault is a wiring break that takes time to trace. Prices vary by model and region — treat these as general ranges.
Common replacement parts for the P0113 error
| Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor | $10–$50 | Standalone sensor; usually an easy DIY swap | |
| MAF sensor (with integrated IAT) | $80–$300 | On vehicles where the IAT is built into the MAF | |
| Connector / pigtail repair kit | $10–$30 | If corroded pins or a broken wire are the cause |
Prices are typical retail ranges and vary by model and supplier — always confirm the exact part number for your appliance before buying.
OBD-II P0113 error — FAQ
＋ − Is it safe to drive with this code?
Generally yes. P0113 alone rarely causes serious drivability problems because the ECM falls back to a default intake temperature value. You may notice slightly worse fuel economy or cold-start behavior. It is safe to drive while you arrange the repair, but do not ignore it long-term.
＋ − How much does it cost to fix?
Often very cheap. A standalone IAT sensor is typically $10–$50 and easy to swap yourself. If it is part of the MAF sensor, the part can run $80–$300. Shop labor is usually minimal (around $40–$100) since the sensor is easy to reach.
＋ − What is the difference between P0113 and P0112?
Both are IAT circuit codes. P0113 is 'high input' — the ECM sees high voltage, reading air as unrealistically cold, usually from an open circuit or disconnected sensor. P0112 is 'low input' — low voltage, reading air as unrealistically hot, usually from a short to ground.
Sources & manufacturer references
This guide is independently written and not affiliated with OBD-II. Always unplug appliances before servicing and follow your model's manual. Error codes and steps can vary by model — when in doubt, consult a qualified technician.